The Medina (old city) showcases traditional Morocco. Convential dress of head scarves and djellabas (long, loose-fitting robes) are abudant and five times a day the call to prayer from various mosques fill the air. Women are seen carrying buckets on their way to and from hammams (local steam baths) while men are either making or selling local goods. While there are a few sites to see (Saadian tombs, Ben Youssef Madrasa, and Koutoubia Mosque), the main highlights of the Medina are the Souks and the Djemaa el Fna.
The Souks (markets) can easily be a two day event on their own! Set in small, winding back alleys that are not always found on maps, thousands of vendors sell everything from spices to lanterns. It is a never ending madness of colors, shouting, and speeding scooters. While it is a fun to simple get lost while window shopping, it is a blast to actually enter the stall and bargain! Bargaining is expected and if you master the game, you can score some great deals while simultanously getting to know the locals and their culture.
Djemaa el Fna, one of Africa's busiest squares, is the heartbeat of the Medina. By day, locals and tourists gather to watch dancers, musicians, acrobats, and story-tellers while enjoying fresh squeezed orange juice from one of several stands. And yes, there are snake charmers throughout the square hypnotizing cobras with various instruments. By night, Djemaa el Fna becomes a huge open air restuarant as food booths take over.
If you want to escape all the mayhem of the Medina, there are a few options. One of the most popular is to stay at a riad. Riads, traditional Moroccan homes with interior courtyards and rooftop terraces, are commonly remodeled into restaurants and B&B's. Riad Safa (http://www.riad-safa.com/), our chosen home for the weekend, was a wonderful oasis. Our first night we enjoyed an amazing tajine dinner and every morning we started our day with a traditional Moroccan breakfast. In the evenings we got relaxed with some other guests and learned a lot about Moroccan culture, politics and everyday life by the riad's caretaker, Brahim.
If a riad does not do the tick of calming your nevers after a day of bargaining and nearly getting killed by a scooter, then head to Gueliz. Gueliz, a neighborhood outside of the old city, is modern and liberal. Fashion reflects western influences as store sell popular name brands. New and renovated flats/houses line the strees. Restaurants even sell alcohol and a few nightclubs provide an active nightlife.
While not necessarily relaxing, this trip was undoubtedly eye-opening and demonstrates one of the reason why I love to travel...to see and experience different cultures, religions, and ways of life.